BlubAquatics

Thank you very much!

I managed to lower the co2 injection rate to around 3 bubble per second and here are my pH readings (de-gassed water pH is 8.33 (meter) and 8.2 (API): 1 hour - 7.24 (meter), 6.6 (API) 2 hours - 7.1 (meter), 6.6 (API) 3 hours - 6.97 (meter), 6.4 (API) 4 hours - 6.95 (Meter), 6.4 (API) 7 hours - 6.92 (Meter) Its interesting that both meter and API readings agree with each other at higher pH (>8), but at lower pH they don't.

Thank you! So I should be looking at fresh tank water pH and not the off-gassed tank water pH? I do see CO2 bubbles all over the tank, most are at the side where the diffuser is and fewer towards the filter pipes.

Yes, I have posted my starting pH. But I am not sure whether to take fresh tank water pH or off-gassed tank water as a starting point. Could you take a look and advice me on the pH target I should be hitting?

Hi guys! It's my first time doing a high-tech tank and I need some advice regarding the adequate CO2 concentration for my setup (1 week old). Livestock has not been added to the tank yet. Hardware: Tank: 90x30x30cm (81L) Effective water volume: ~60L Hardscape: Spider wood, seiryu rocks, tropica aquasoil in filter bags capped with ADA sand Lighting: Week Aqua P900 at 30% intensity for 8 hours a day CO2: Too many bubbles to count, but it gets turned on 1 hour before the lights go up and stops one hour before lights retire Filtration: Oase biomaster 350 Plants: Water parameters: I'm using a cheap pH meter and API test kit to test for pH. Aerated tank water (bubbled overnight) pH (meter): 8.33 pH (API): LR7.6, HR8.4 GH: 8 KH: 8 Fresh tank water before CO2 injection pH (meter): 7.67 pH (API): LR7.2, HR7.4 GH: 8 KH: 3 CO2 injection pH stats CO2 gets turned on 1 hour before lights go up. So at the 1 hour reading, that's when the lights just start. 1 hour: 6.6 (API), 6.84 (Meter) 2 hours: 6.4 (API), 6.64 (Meter) 3 hours: 6.0 (API), 6.63 (Meter) <- weird that API registered such a change while the meter did not Will be updated~ Optimal CO2 concentration based on pH drop What I understand is that the optimal CO2 concentration is achieved with a pH drop of 1. But which starting pH should I be looking at? Fresh tank water or aerated tank water? What should be the pH my tank water should stabilize at during CO2 injection hours?

Hi guys, I am currently planning to set up a 90cm x 30cm x 30cm high-tech tank.I am looking for light options and I currently have a Chihiros WRGB2 60cm light on hand, and I was thinking if it would be adequate for a tank of this size. I am planning to use a hanging kit to suspend the light over the middle of the tank (Side note, has anyone used the hanging kit on 6mm thick glass before?).If I were to run it at 100% intensity, how high should the light be above the water level?Here are the stats of the 60cm light:

How do you know if the reduction in nitrates was due to the plants (especially floating duckweed) or anoxic filtration?

Thank you everyone for confirming what I suspected. I do have a bachelors in Biological Sciences so I could pick up all the bullshit that guy was spouting, but just had to confirm it with the experts.

So, I got into a discussion with someone about overstocking tanks (e.g. 10 fancy goldfish in a 3ft tank) and my stance was that it would be inhumane due to space and water quality concerns. But there was this guy who claimed that it's perfectly fine because "as long as you have enough filtration you can achieve 0 nitrates". He shares his experience with his "3 ft tank with numerous small tetras, corydoras, altum, discus, plecos that has 0 nitrates" with 2 Eheim Classic 350 filters with 3-4kh of biohome media. Sensing something amiss, I enquired further and it turns out that that he has peace lilies growing out of his tank as well, which I think would be the one responsible for 0 nitrates. If anyone is interested in what the guy said exactly, click here. So, my question is: Can one reasonably achieve adequate denitrification using canister filters to bring nitrates down to 0?