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Friller

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Everything posted by Friller

  1. I agree yours all look like females. They don't need a male to develop eggs. The male only fertilises them, making them viable eggs able to hatch.
  2. Female peacock gudgeon, notice how the yellow stops before the fin. This is eggs. Males can also develop a yellow colour under the head, extending beyond the fin. Male peacock gudgeon, notice how the yellow continues under the chin, and the large boof head, similar to a nuchal hump
  3. Eggs. My females get like that, male traps em in a cave, they do their thing, boom eggs. Male fans eggs, eggs hatch, eggs go into green water tank, more Peacocks.
  4. G.Incisus, salmon red rainbow. Deepwater Crk (M. Splendida splendida) look nothing like G. Incisus. Vs
  5. Are you sure that sahulensis is a skull creek? Looks quite red, skull creeks are more of a light orange to yellow. Spotted blue eyes and the Maccullochi group go well. I've kept them with Wilsoni, Maccullochi, Papuae and Sexlineata, with only sexlineata not working out well. Is that Rhad one of Leo O'Reillys 'morphs' of rhads? And even so it looks more like a Teewah Creek 'Ultra red" compared to Searys Crk which tend to be more blue. The rhads will fight with the Gertrudae, Any of the long finned blue eyes will be pecked at. Only really Mellis and Signifer pair well. Make sure that you don't put aggressive rainbows with peaceful ones. G. Pseudoincisus will rip anything to shreds, and M.Sexlneata can be nasty as well. I've lost a large (~10cm) P.Furcatus to a Male M.Kamaka fighting for dominance. Some of the larger species like Regals (trifasciata) and Boesmani can be a-holes so be careful with them.
  6. 😍😍 The ONE species that I want but I can't get! Stupid import laws! If the import laws didn't exist I'd be pestering Gary for the whole of the ANGFA conference in October for him to ship me some!
  7. Before we can give stocking ideas, we need filtration. Sponge filters would be best for that size tank, one of a larger size, I like to run two in my 60gallon tanks. 1-3 angels would be fine depending on the type. Remember angles can get aggressive. Harlequin rasboras at least 6. Corys really depend on what you want. If you want some larger species you could go with some smaller Brochis like Emeralds, or if you want colour you could go with Sterbai, Panda, Bronze/Albinos and Venezuelans Be careful with the small species like pygmies and Hastatus as angles can eat them
  8. Epistylis. Treat with salt and salt dips, that should should clear it up. It's a bacteria so clean the tank before doing anything else.
  9. If it is either than they won't be much longer I would lean towards a Sahyadria sp. A cyprinid of some sorts.
  10. Very good advice! I have a very strong friendship with my LFS. Sadly he’s having to move so now I am left with bad LFS till he opens back up again. Let’s just say he will have a lot of stock when he opens up from me....
  11. Kyathit are redfinned danios. The CPDs aren’t large enough within that first two weeks to take them.
  12. Remember that fish stores need to make a profit too. I sell my fish for 1/5 of the price the stores sells for. That way they are making a decent profit, and I am making enough to buy some food here and there. Also remember that stores have the option to bulk buy fish from wholesalers for cheap prices. I sold fish on Gumtree (Aussie version of cragslist) and find it to be a pain, and honestly selling to stores is much easier.
  13. Recently, I have been thinking about transferring my Bichir over to my 4ft tank, and using his current tank as a breeding tank for my pair of tiger endlers. But a tank that is roughly 40ish gallons seems a waste for just them. What are some species you think will breed in a 40 gallon tank alongside tiger endlers. I was thinking Cherry shrimp, Clown Killifish and pygmy cories. Any ideas are appreciated.
  14. My choprae and kyahtit both take vinegar eels with in about a week. Infusoria is what I use prior. CPDs only get infusoria.
  15. It looks like expanding foam. Might be. Freshwater sponges do look kind of similar
  16. Here's an article my Father made on brine shrimp in his fishroom. DIY Brine Shrimp Hatchers A pipette full of freshly hatched brine shrimp is a key weapon in the fish breeder’s arsenal. While its size (around 450 microns) makes it unsuitable as a first food for most of our Aussie natives (most will require foods less than 100 microns for 7-10 days), this liquid gold is extremely useful in raising robust and healthy fry once they are big enough to take it. In this article, I’m going to share my experience using a few different low-cost brine shrimp hatchers, all of which I have found to be at least as effective or even better than the much more expensive commercial models I’ve used in my fishroom. 2 Litre Brine Shrimp Hatcher The first model of brine shrimp hatcher was shown to me by ANGFA NSW life member, the late Ian Baddock. I added one thing to his design – a cover to reduce evaporation and salt spray settling on everything in the vicinity. I love this design because it’s simple, incredibly cheap to make and easy to harvest as well. This is the model I keep coming back to and am currently using. The addition of a peg helps me remember which hatchery to harvest next. This is the is the insulated model I currently use. Making The Hatcher First, find yourself a 2lt soft drink bottle. Look for the wider cylindrical bottles as they give you a larger surface area and are usually just the right diameter (about 10cm) to make a quick cover from a round takeaway container lid (12cm). Make sure the cap on the bottle is tight fitting and does not leak. Start by cutting the bottom off the bottle. The goal is a neat straight cut that conserves the maximum volume in the bottle. An easy way to mark a straight(ish) line is to wrap a tape measure around the bottle as in the photo, then mark a line with a black permanent marker. Making the cut with a good sharp pair of scissors will probably get the best result as blades tend to wander and you will end up with a wonky edge. This won’t matter all that much, but a straight edge does give a better result when you fit a cover. Attach a length of airline to a piece of rigid tubing. I like to use the Pope 200mm irrigation riser as the tubing attaches straight onto the end without any need for modification. Drill a hole in the centre of your takeaway container lid and shove the riser in – you want a tight fit. Hook this up to your air system and it’s ready to go. (Don’t forget to place a piece of sacrificial timber under the lid when you drill the hole to avoid cracking). Once you’ve made your hatcher, you’ll need to make a simple frame to hold your hatchery. I won’t show you how I made this, as it’s just a few offcuts quickly screwed together, painted, and secured to the bench. Invert your bottle and it’s ready to go. The basic 2lt hatchery and frame Using the Two Litre Brine Shrimp Hatcher Fill your bottle with warm water. Tap water is fine. You want the water level about 2cm from the top – this prevents the water from spilling out with the bubbling action. Add a rounded tablespoon of salt – I use pool salt with good results (20kg Sunray Pool Salt is $8.50 at Bunnings). Add a 1/4 to 1/3 teaspoon bicarb soda to buffer. Add your brine shrimp cysts (follow directions on packaging, but usually about 5 grams to 2lt water). Insert your rigid airline to the bottom of the bottle and set the airflow to a steady stream of bubbles. For best results, you’ll need a light source like a desk lamp with a florescent globe as well. I ended up securing a cheap ($15) floodlight fitting to my stand to keep my bench clear, but I used a desk lamp for years. Depending on temperature, it will take somewhere between 18-36 hours for your cysts to hatch. You can find a reference guide online or consult the instructions that came with your particular brand of brine shrimp. Harvesting your Baby Brine Shrimp Remove the rigid tubing to stop aeration. Allow the brine shrimp nauplii to settle at the bottom of the bottle (I find about 20-30 minutes works well for me). Using another length of airline tubing attached to a piece of rigid tubing, siphon the shrimp from the bottom of the bottle into a brine shrimp sieve. Rinse into a container and feed out to your fish with a pipette or a syringe. 2 Litre Brine Shrimp Hatcher with Heat Capture Insulation After a couple of years, I noticed a pattern of poor hatch rates during winter months in my fishroom. I put this down to the temperature being too low, so I decided to try and capture the heat from the light source I was using to culture my brine shrimp. A couple of small modifications were all I needed to secure consistently good hatch rates all year round. I insulated the frame using some coreflute I had lying around (about $10 a sheet at Bunnings). I attached it with a few button-head screws so that I can remove it if things are too hot in summer. For further insulation, I glued some polystyrene to the coreflute where the gaps in the stand allowed it. I’ve never attempted to do it, but I’m sure you could enclose it if you wanted, though I’ m not sure one light is enough for this situation. Hatching brine shrimp is a bit of a personal thing – everyone has their own tried and tested method they swear by. If you’ve got a proven frugal hatching method you would like to share, let us know! The more ideas we can share the better for everyone. Next time, I’ll share how I made a DIY brine-shrimp sieve. This is one of my favourite pieces of equipment in the fishroom and I’m excited to be able to share it.
  17. How about some apistogramma on the bottom? There is countless awesome and colourful species Watch out for the frogbit. It's one of the world's worst invasive species. One little bit that escapes in a water change can cause this What's your secret!! My pair refuses to breed! They bred twice and that's been it.
  18. One of my favourite books. Got my self a copy a while back. Sits next to Amano’s book and the Blue Book (Australian keeping)
  19. I've kept and bred Forktail Blueyes for numerous years at a pH of 6. I've also had them survive temps down to 8 degrees Celsius.
  20. Hi, all I'm just wondering what everyone else thinks of biotopes? I personally love them. I've had biotopes for White clouds, and my current Macleay River Turtle tank is a biotope as well.
  21. Welcome to the hobby! What cichlids do you have? SA/CA or africans?
  22. +1 for the khulis eating them. Wouldn't stand a chance at night.
  23. Yeah. The idea is for essentially the whole back to be Daintree Val, and I had a lot planted out before I put him in, but some ramshorn snails ate the leaves. The only plants I want in the tank is Daintree Val. I keep plants for the fish. I do believe all Elodea is illegal where I live in NSW. Thanks. I love the native tandan catfishes.
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